Seni Jahit - Memahami Jahitan Satu Jaitan dalam Kerajinan Tangan dan DIY
Apa Itu Stitch (Tusuk Jahitan)?
Dalam tekstil, tusuk jahit atau stitch adalah serangkaian putaran tunggal yang berulang-ulang atau loop benang melalui interloping, intralooping, atau interlacing. Ini adalah elemen dasar untuk menjahit, merajut, menyulam, merenda, dan membuat renda jarum, baik dengan tangan atau mesin. Berikut adalah perbedaan atara interlooping, intralooping dan interlacing dalam menjahit:
- Interlooping adalah proses melewati satu lingkaran benang melalui lingkaran lain yang dibentuk oleh benang-benang yang berbeda.
- Intralooping adalah proses melewati loop lain dari thread yang dibuat oleh thread yang sama.
- Interlacing adalah proses melewatkan benang di atas atau di sekitar benang atau loop yang berbeda.
How To Select The Right Types of Stitches For Garments
Now that you know the most common types of stitches, how do you choose the right ones for your designs? Here are some factors to consider:
Material: Different fabrics behave differently during garment construction. Consider the fabric’s characteristics and choose the appropriate stitching method accordingly. For example, a stretchy knit fabric may require a zigzag stitch to maintain elasticity.
Type of Garment: Consider the purpose and style of the garment, as well as your design requirements. Activewear, for instance, may require stronger and more elastic stitches.
Part of the Garment: Different parts of a garment and different seam types may require specific stitches. For example, using a blind hem stitch for invisible hemlines or a reinforced bar tack stitch for pocket openings.
In addition to understanding different types of stitches, knowing when and how to use them will improve your garment construction skills. It’ll also help you understand how various construction details are designed and made.
Single Crochet into another Row
After the first row of single crochet, you can turn your work and start another row. To do this, you’ll work into the stitches of the previous row.
- Chain 1 and turn your work clockwise. (Keep your hook in the chain stitch as you turn the work, so you don’t lose your place.) You will now be looking at the backside of the previous row.
- Make a single crochet stitch in the first stitch.
- Continue across the row, making sure to work into the last stitch.
- To start another row, ch-1 and turn.
Fastening Off: Cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch yarn tail. Lift the hook straight up, bringing the yarn tail through the remaining loop on the hook. Pull the yarn tail to tighten the last stitch. Weave in the yarn ends with a tapestry needle.
What To Do When You Don’t Know The Type Of Stitch To Use For Garment Construction
Identifying stitches can be challenging, especially if you’re new to the fashion industry or working with unfamiliar techniques.
The secret trick when you don’t know the type of stitch? Look at similar garments in the market! (a good excuse to go window shopping! )
To become proficient at identifying different types of stitches, practice makes perfect. Spend time examining different garments – both inside out and right side up – until you’re familiar with how each kind looks and feels.
You can also find inspiration from credible sources like books and online blogs where fashion designers share their work and techniques.
The book Garment Manufacturing Technology is a great resource that delves into the intricacies of garment production. It also dives deep into the classes of garment stitches and their practical applications.
If you’re looking for a more concise guide, this blog post on Apparel Merchandising Learner offers a quick and visually illustrated cheat sheet, perfect for understanding the various types of garment stitches.
If you’re using this approach, make sure to:
Alright! You now know the basic types of stitches for garment construction and how to spec them in tech packs.
By familiarizing yourself with common stitches, understanding their applications, and communicating stitching requirements, the production process will go much smoother.
(And remember, you don’t need to know every single type of stitch—use the workarounds I shared to make sure your designs are made right!)
Tags: jahit stitch
